When we renovated this little house, I knew I wanted black windows. However, when we were ordering our windows, black ones were back-ordered by several months, so we installed the white windows and put it on my “list” to paint them black later. It has been over a year since we moved into this little home, and I finally made the time to paint my windows black using Rustoleum Semi-Gloss Black Enamel Spray paint and Scotch 33+ Pro Electrical Tape for the grids.
I am in love and cannot believe it took me this long to make this change. The black windows now burst off the walls and beautifully frame out the views of the outdoors. My heart sings when I look at them. I highly recommend this simple, and quick DIY if you are wanting a change.
Tips and Tricks:
Taping/tarping off will take more time than the actual painting does, but it is so important. I highly recommend using Frog Tape Multisurface painter’s tape to get the best edges. In my opinion, it is worth the extra couple of dollars per roll to have a crisp edge.
Clean your windows well with a de-greasing cleaner. I did not fully clean my windows and the paint did not stick as smoothly in some areas. It is not noticeable from far away, but it is “bumpy” in some spots.
If you do not want to see any original white window mullions (mine are in-between the glass) double your tape lines (make the mullions appear thicker).
Fully allow your windows to dry, then open them to spray the lip that is covered when closed to get full coverage. While this hack is amazing, you will not be able to get into every nook and cranny-If you want completely black windows, I’d budget to buy new ones.
Electrical tape is water and heat-proof: this trick will hold up over time and you can also use this on exterior sides of windows, which I plan on doing at a later time and will give more details once I do.
Hemming Tape: I will be the first to admit do not have sewing skills, so instead I use hemming tape to shorten all my curtains to float above the ground. I also cannot believe it took me a year to finally get my excess curtain material off the floor!
Kitchen Cabinet Color: Herb Bouquet By Benjamin Moore
Taking a break from our garden series to highlight one of my favorite little corners (currently) of our little home which sits in our guest bedroom with the Murphy Bed we built several months ago. This room screams functionality. We only have 2 bedrooms in this 750 sq ft temporary home of ours, so this second room has become a second closet, a place for storage, occasionally guests, and now a place I can go to get ready for the day.
I don’t know about you, but I am not particularly fond of getting ready in the mornings. I spend a lot of my days covered in sawdust, sweat, or dirt (most the time a combination of all three), so sometimes even brushing my hair out feels like a pointless task, let alone fixing it.
I’ve actually been meaning to turn the drab little corner of this spare room into a vanity for a couple of months now, but it wasn’t a priority because I kept telling myself “we’ll be in the big house soon, I won’t bother”. Plus we’ve been pouring our hearts into our garden projects, so it fell on the back burner. But when Frame It Easy came to me wanting to partner up on a project, I knew it was a sign that this corner didn’t need to wait any longer, and that it was time to create a space that I would enjoy sitting down in.
Frame it Easy is exactly what it sounds like: custom framing made extremely easy! They have a great selection of frames to choose from as well as customizable mattes and glass finishes, and you can upload your art/photos directly on their site where they print out high-quality framed images shipped right to your door!
To paint the desk, I used Sherwin Williams Emerald paint after sanding with a light sandpaper. I am planning on adding a piece of glass over the top of the vanity desk, but if you are not going to do this and anticipate heavy use (or kids) I would prime with B-I-N Primer prior to painting for best results.
Gallery Wall
To hang my gallery wall, I use painters tape and “trace” the oultine of my frame, as well as add a piece to mark where the hanger sits. I then stick the “tape frame” on the wall and am able to move them around. The tape may fight you a little bit, so you can also use paper to trace out your frame sizes and play with placement on the wall.
Windows
Honestly, the windows make. this. space. glow. To tranform boring white windows, all you need is some black spray paint, and electrical tape. Clean your windows really well, then tape off all the glass and spray paint your windows. Once they have dried, use the electrical tape to make a paned grid, or to go over existing grids! It that easy. Electrical tape is black on both sides, so rest assured that these look great on the outside as well (if it is a front facing window, be sure to paint the frame of the exterior window as well. (You can also go over the white existing panes on the exterior since electrical tape is waterproof as well!)
And just like that, my drab little corner is like Cinderella ready to go to a ball. I can just hear the birds chirping now. I’ve got some additional tweaking and clean up to do still, but wow. What a transformation!
The board and batten hallway wall is DONE! In all honesty, I started this project over a month ago, and this is one one the quickest projects to complete…if you order enough wallpaper to begin with…YEP. I only ordered one roll (I needed three) of this beautiful wallpaper from Wallery, and I realized the moment I was going to put it up. Huge fail on my part, but hey, live and learn. While I have officially dubbed this small, dark hall as my “home’s most challenging place to photograph”, this area turned out to be exactly how I envsioned it, and I am super excited to have a beautiful, yet functional, spot to “dump” all those jackets and bags that always pile up in random places!
Links +Deets:
Board and Batten Basics:
I’m sure you noticed, but I have textured walls. Because the price of lumber is outrageous accross the board and we just built our chicken condo, I opted to let the texture slide and didn’t glue board behid my battens. If you want a smooth finish, use liquid nails to put up a back board (like a wall panel or thinner piece of smooth plywood, idk I didn’t do this don’t quote me) then place your battens on top.
I used 1″X2″ MDF boards for my vertical boards, and 1″X4″ MDF for my horizontal top boards. These are attached with nails (use a level to ensure they are straight), then fill any holes with wood filler and caulk the gaps to give a seamless appearance. Before applying your favorite paint, be sure to prime your boards. This ensures that the paint sticks properly and doesn’t soak in. That’s pretty much all there is to it to board and batten walls-its a super easy and fast project that quickly transforms a space.
I love how the green board and batten combined with aged gold hooks ties my small living/kitchen area into the hallway! I used Herb Bouquet by Benjamin Moore (but in Sherwin Williams Duration paint, we like the quality better). Every time I use this paint, I am transported into a cozy, earthy wonderland, and I am convinced this may be the perfect shade of green/gray for home accents.
This wallpaper is the perfect additon to this space. I love how sublte the design is, and how it adds a delicate drama the space without crowding this small hallway. I will note that the white background does make the seams between pieces a tad more noticable than darker wallpapers I have used in the past.
I searched the internet high and low for the perfect gold hook, and these were perfect for the price. I may even buy some more to add to this wall..TBD.
Hello friends! We have finally made it to the final project that completes this Murphy Bed: a headboard! I knew that this space wasn’t fully finished until I added this special detail, and I feel like it pulls everything together perfectly. (I’m pretty sure my pups think this bed was made specifically for them!)
When we decided to build a murphy bed into this space, my biggest caviat was the appearance of the structure. This addition needed to be a part of this house, and I still wanted to give a cozy, homey vibe while maintaining the multi- function purpose of this room. I think we have done a pretty stellar job achieving that goal, but when I pulled the bed down, the space just looked…unfinished. So I decided to DIY a beautiful, soft, comfortable headboard! Here’s how I did it:
You can find real-time projects and updates on my Instagram: @theroostingplace
Materials:
1 sheet 3/4″ plywood (If you want a sturdier headboard, use 1″ plywood. I opted for the thinner so it fit inside the folded bed)
2 rolls of 24″x72″x1″ project foam (you can also use thicker foam and buy it by the yard if you want, I found this was cheapest)
Quilt Batting
2 yards upholstery fabric of choice*
Staple Gun + 3/4″ staples
29 buttons of choice
Super Strong Fabric Glue (Aleene’s or E-6000 work great)
1/2″ hooks
Hanging wire or D-ring hangers
The Process
Determine the desired shape of headboard, then draw it out on the plywood. A standard queen headboard should be 62-65″ wide, depending on the amount of hangover. (As for height, I made my headboard 3 feet tall at the highest point, which I feel is pretty standard. You can make yours taller, just keep in mind that the amount of extra material you may have to buy.)
I opted for the “cleveland” style. To draw out a rounded top, use a pencil and attach a piece of string to it. Hold the other end of the string, and pulling taut, use the pencil to create an even arch. I then used a bowl to get the extra curves on my edges. Using a jigsaw, cut out the drawn shape.
Next, lay out and stack batting, then foam, then plywood. Mark out the edges of the headboard giving an additional 2″-this will ensure enough material to wrap over the top of the board and be stapled to the back.
First, staple the foam by pulling the pieces tight over the edges. Start at the “break” between the 2 pieces of foam and staple the sides first to prevent a split in your foam. Then pull the edged tight and staple all the way around. Repeat the process with the batting. (Batting diminishes the appearance of the split in the foam. You can double the batting up if you wish.) Even with my goof split, my batting hid it and paired with the upholstered divets, this isn’t noticable at all.
To create the upholstered look, flip the headboard over to the front, then lay the material over the top. It is important to not attach the edges first to ensure there is enough slack for the divets. Meausure out placement for the first divet- I chose 12″ apart and eyeballed my first placement. Use the stapler to make an X and create a divet. Measure 12″ over and down and repeat until there are enough to make you happy.
Once all the divets are made, flip the headboard back over and staple the fabric around the edged and to the back, pulling the fabric tight to avoid unwanted wrinkles. *(tip: when picking your fabric, check out the sale fabric section! I got 2.5 yards of fabric for 50% off the original price plus most places will give an additional discount for buying the end of bolt*
While you are back here, attach your hangers! Use a level and a measuring tape to screw your hangers of choice into the back of the headboard. ** (I used wire and screws because I didn’t want to go back to the store, but you can also use d-rings to make your life simpler.)
Flip the headboard over again and use the glue to attach buttons. Let the adhesive dry before moving the headboard to a vertical postion to ensure best adhesion. While the glue dries, let’s attach our hooks to the wall!
Because my support board for the murphy bed was a few inches off the wall, I used a stud finder to locate studs and screwed a 2X4 into the wall as an “extender” so the headboard could sit flush. Using a drill bit, first make a small pilot hole, then screw the hooks into the wall. Make sure to measure out the distance of your hangers then place your screws. If you are attaching directly to the wall, skip the 2×4 step and simply insert your hooks directly into studs. **Also, if you aren’t attaching to a 2×4, you will want to locate studs first before attaching the hangers to your headboard.**
Last step is to hang it up and to stare blissfully at your beautiful creation! The end! Mine sits perfectly when we fold and unfold the bed, and gives such an elegant final touch to this space. While it has it imperfections, I’m overall super pleased with the look and cozy feel it brought to this room! Now my guests have a place to comfortably rest, and I hope gives them a home-away-from-home comfort.
Let me know if you make one and if this method works for you!
If you’ve been following along on our Instagram, you’ve already seen what we picked for our Murphy Bed color, but for those of you joining us here, I cannot wait to reveal this BEAUTIFUL color to you! I was deciding between 20 different colors (I know, I had no clue what direction I wanted to head.) But this beautiful blue is the perfect compliment to this space!
When I first started out with this project, I planned on leaving the bed and shelving units white. However, after living with them, I felt that the space needed something more! Break out the paint swatches! After collecting 20 swatches, I narrowed it down to the ones below.
My rug is from boutiquerugs.com and I absouletly love it! The colors are beautiful and the texture is so soft! I would reccomend adding a rug pad if you like thick rugs.
I finally I bought sample sizes of 6 colors to test on the bed. I highly suggest testing any paint contenders in the space they will go. Colors can look different in all lighting, as well as the time of day so by physically placing the color where you want it, this garuntees you love the choice you make! I opted out of the pink mainly because I wanted this room to flow with the other greens and blues of the house scheme…but you better believe I will be using Pressed Flower in the future because WOW. Every single one of these colors would have complimented this rug beautifully…so let the testing begin…
Once I decided on a color, we taped off the front of the murphy bed so that we could spray using our WagnerFlexio 590 paint sprayer. I love this sprayer because it is lightweight, has 2 different spraying direction options and multiple spray settings. Great for beginner projects! By using a sprayer, I was able to get into all those small seams of the murphy bed front design, and get an even coating. Had I not decoupaged the shelves, I would have sprayed everywhere, however we had to roll and cut in by hand our shelving units to make sure we were precise.
I forgot to mention that we also added crown molding to our shelving units, and painted after we had caulked all the seams to give a uniform “built in” finish to the whole piece. But for the moment you all have read to find out: my final color choice was Smoky Blue by Sherwin Williams. We used a satin finish in their Duration paint to ensure a tough coat since this piece will get a lot of wear and tear over the years.
Overall, I love that I decided to add color into this room. It typically is difficult for me to go bold in color when it comes to large, permanent pieces, but in this little house, I am learning to trust color! This room calms me down and allows me to escape from the hectic chaos that fills these walls, the blue just makes me happy! Next week, I’m going to fill you in on how to make a super easy “upholstered” headboard like the one I added inside the Murphy Bed!
Tell me, what do you think of using bold colors? What holds you back from trying out new things? For me it’s the fear of the unknown…but we are getting braver every day!
Last I talked about our demo process of Little House- the first step to turning this shack into our temporary home until our “Big House” is built. It took us several months during the heat of Texas summer to flip this shack into what we know now, and are still doing work on it to make it feel like home. We aim to turn it into a guest house/AirBnB once we move into the Big House, so the aim of this whole process is to make it homey for now, and for later.
You can find all our current projects on my Instagram: @theroostingplace
If you haven’t read my previous demo post, check it out here!
Where we left off: we removed the front half of the house! Once we demo’d the front half, it was time for a group of framers to come in and reframe the front and add a new roof. This was another one of those moments where we knew that it was time to call in the pros-there are certain jobs I just don’t trust ourselves to complete and the roof seems pretty important. It was also July and extremely hot, no thank you.
Because our goal was to sell our old house in Houston and be able to move into this house by September, we also chose to hire out placement of the exterior siding and the roofing so the job could get done quickly and correctly. We probably could have done these, but as I mentioned earlier it was July turning into August in Texas, and I chose a black standing seam metal roof for the house….those poor men did an excellent job (I did tell them I was sorry for my color choice and the timing, but love how it looks so their hard work was worth it!) We chose to paint the exterior Alabaster by Sherwin Williams, which in the evening will pull yellow-you have been warned!
Now this little building is looking more like a house! Next we move onto interior. Harley and his dad ran all the A/C ductwork, as well as the electrical. We used the existing electrical box and A/C unit, just replaced/reconfigured wiring and ducting.
Blessing the House
Once all our interior walls were built, before we installed insulation and sheetrock went in, I asked our friends and family to send us a Bible verse or quote that was special to them. We then wrote all these on the studs throughout our home, and prayed over the house. This was a very special moment to us both, as we plan to spend the rest of our lives on this property, and wanted to ask a blessing over all who entered these doors. I plan to repeat this event with family and friends in attendance once the Big House framing is complete. I have a digital guide in the works that will be available for purchase that will provide an extensive list of verses we used, organized room by room! It will be coming soon!
Let’s Add Some Flesh to Those Bones!
We were then ready to insulate and sheetrock (yep, hired out the sheetrock because it’s heavy and we were pressed for time).
Once sheet rock was in and textured (I originally did not want texture, and will not be using any in the Big House), we could officially paint, and install floor. Tip: to make it easier to choose a paint color, paint your samples on foam boards! This way you can move them from wall to wall or room to room to compare lighting ! Colors look different in different lighting so be sure to place your testers in all areas at different times of day to best gauge your preference. We also set up a paint tent outside which we used to spray our baseboards, which made it much easier than having to paint them post install.
The interior paint color I chose for walls, trim, and ceiling is Chantilly Lace by Benjamin Moore, but we color matched at Sherwin Willaims using their Duration paint line in a matte finish. (Many people prefer satin in order too easily clean, but I haven’t found a major issue cleaning my matte finished walls).
For me, this is the perfect shade of white for interiors. I don’t find that it pulls too yellow or too blue, and looks beautiful with our black contrasting doors.
That’s where I will end for now. Next, we will talk about intalling flooring, and outline the vision for our precious kitchen!
Decoupaging is a simple way to add personality to any surface, and when I heard of a “cheaper” way to apply paper via glue I knew I had to test it out. Keep reading to see which method I found to work best for me and my Murphy Bed Shelving Back project!
You can find this and other DIY projects on my Instagram @theroostingplace.
de·cou·page /dāko͞oˈpäZH/the art of decorating surfaces by applying cutouts (as of paper) and then coating with usually several layers of finish (such as lacquer or varnish)
Merriam-webster dictionary
How to Decoupage
The process of decoupage is a fairly simple art:
First, apply a layer of glue (typically Mod Podge) which can be slightly watered down for smoother application to the surface of desired project.
Then apply a layer of glue to the back of chosen paper.
Place paper on surface and smooth with hand carefully to avoid ripping the paper.
Coat exterior of paper with another layer of glue to seal and protect the applied paper from damage.
Mod Podge Vs. Elmer’s Glue
Mod Podge can be directly applied to paper with or without dilution via water, and is the more popular choice for decoupaging. The ingredients of Mod Podge are made up mainly of water and polyvinyl acetate, a common ingredient in most white glues. The main difference between this and other crafting glues is that Mod Podge goes an extra step beyone other glues and adds ingredients make this glue superior for glueing, sealing, and finishing—regular craft glues typically are only typically good for gluing.
But Modge Podge can get expensive, especailly when applying to a large surface area, so when I heard about the cheaper hack that uses a watered down Elmer’s Glue I knew I needed to try it.
According to a basic google search, the ratio to create “home made modge podge” from Elmer’s glue is 1/3 cup water for every 2/3 cups of Elmer’s glue. So I mixed some up and got to work to put it to the test
My Project
I decided to add paper to the back of my Murphy Bed shelves to give a fun contrast. (This was before I decided to paint them, but I love how the paper looks against my color choice). I used 12×12 sheets of scrapbooking paper, purchased from Hobby Lobby. I originally chose the more pink paper to the left, but after applying it I switched it out for the right. Not really relevant to this experiment, but notable nontheless.
Because I have two sets of shelving, Mod Podge was applied to the left, and the Elmer’s mixture was used to apply the right. I used the same technique as described above. After allowing both sides to fully dry, I was able to cut the excess paper with a box cuter knife to give relatively clean edges.
My Conclusion
I found the Elmers mixture a little frustrating to work with. It did not seem to stick as well, and left significantly more air bubbles between the surface of the shelf wall and my paper. Because this won’t get too much contact and wear, I think it will hold up alright, but definetly would have used the Mod Podge on both sides.
I think the Elmer’s mixture may work better with a less dilute ratio, and for me it did technically work, it just isn’t my favorite. The end result is still beautiful, and I love how easily this technique can transform a piece, but I guess I’ll be sticking with the real deal for now!
When we last left off with the Murphy Bed, I had teased with the rough concept drawing for my next plans: adding a design to the front. My plan was inspired off of a door I had seen on Pinterest, with angled wood pieces that had been laid in a “zig-zag” chevron pattern to create this fun, whimsical look and I knew I had to add this element into the Murphy bed. Keep reading to see how I did it!
You can also find this transformation and other real time DIY’s on my Instagram @theroostingplace.
Supplies
2 in. finishing nails
Approx. 20 8’x1″x2″ Primed MDF boards (chances are you will make a wrong cut or two, buy some extra because they can always be returned)
Spacers (I used nickels)
Nail Gun
Miter Saw
Speed Square
Basic, assembled Murphy Bed, prior to any “facelifts”
The Process
The seam you see in the middle of the bed front is a result of the 2 plywood sheets that were attatched to hold the mattress inside the box of the Murphy Bed, but for me, this looked very unfinished. This is when I came accross a beautiful chevron style barn door by Distinctive Doors and I knew I had to try my hand at a take on this design. Here’s how I turned the following concept drawing into reality:
First begin by drawing out a reference edge about 1″ in from the edge of the face piece of the bed. This will be where the angled cuts end, and leaves room to later add a boarder piece to give the edges a clean, finished look. Next, measure and drew a line about halfway up, which will be the point where top and bottom boards meet to create the triangle point and “switch directions”.
Next, begin to cut angle pieces. This process took some time, as I found it most full-proof to measure each board one piece at a time. Begin on the longest top edge sloping down to give the point of the center triangle. If using a Miter Saw, cutting pieces at a 45-degree angle is relatively simple-just set your saw to the 45 degree mark on the correct side depending on which cut you are making. If there is not a Miter saw on hand, use a speed square to mark 45-degrees and cut using a circular hand saw.
PAY ATTENTION to which direction the angle cut needs to go, depending on where the board is sitting when it hits the reference marks. I found it best to cut the board close to the needed length, then physically place the board in it’s spot on the face and mark using a speed square the exact location of the angle. I did this for top and bottom edges.
To add the next piece, use a spacer (I used a nickle but you can also buy tile spacers) to ensure even gap placement. This part gets tricky and helps to have another set of hands, because you need to hold the board in place with the spacer, as well as mark the angle cuts at the appropriate locations/lengths.
Once correct cuts are made, realign with the spacers. Then use a nail gun to attach the board in place. Repeat for all boards.
*NOTE: To make the cuts a the corners, first cut your 45-degree angle as you had been, then turn your saw to the other direction 45-degree angle to make the side cut. This will give you a 90-degree corner.*
Once the initial triangle has been attatched, attach the shorter corner pieces next. To do this, line up a 90-degree (straight) edge of a MDF board with the edge of the triangle, then mark your outer edge cut. This was the simplest way I found to do these angles and give the look I wanted.
Once all the diagonal cuts are in place, rip another MDF board into the desired width of the space between the edge of the boards and the bed front edge. Then attach with nails and viola, there you have it!
The End Result (and Lessons Learned)
Personally, I love how I was able to bring my vision to life and I hope y’all love it as much as I do! It did take some time due to the individual cuts required to minimalize wasted wood (trust me, I still made several bad cuts). Take your time, and if you are able, use a second set of hands. I ended up eye-balling my spacing at the end because my nickels kept rolling out, so my angles/spacing aren’t 100% perfect. BUT its very unoticable, especially after paint. I won’t lie, I feel pretty awesome knowing that I DID THIS with my own two hands!
But we aren’t done just yet! What’s up next: paint!
Okay y’all, this may be the simplest yet most satisfying project I have done yet! We have given this little house so many additions to make our space functional, yet visually appealing and I have been dying to put these shelves up in our bathroom. This house definetly has challeneged us to simplify and cut back on unneccecary items, yet condensing our bathroom was continually a struggle. We needed something that was pretty, and functional to hide all of our toiletries, hair products, medicines, towels, etc… all in a 2.5X 5 ft space above the toilet. What we had previously definitely was not working in our favor.
Cue our bathroom shelves. I say these were one of the easiest projects to date, mainly because the hardest part was waiting for the stain on our wood to dry so I could put it all together! It’s very rare that I finish a project in one day but these I finished in about 2 hours not including stain dry time-and I only bought the brackets for the assembly of this project, everything else I used I had on hand! WINS all over the place!
I first started off with these L brackets from Hobby Lobby, which at the time were 50% off. I ordered 2 for each shelf, a total of 8. Hanging these guys was super simple-I measured the center of the space above the toilet, then measured 6 inches out to find the where each bracket would sit. Next, I placed my right bracket up against my edge reference point and used a pencil to mark where the screwholes were. Taking a drill bit, I then made a pilot hole for my drywall screws since these would not be in studs. After inserting the anchor, I replaced the bracket and secured it using screws. I used a level to find the placement for the left bracket, and repeated the steps used for the right. I measured 16 inches down for the next shelves and repeated until all 8 brackets were securely in place.
Once the shelving brackets were in place, it was time for the stain. I reused some wood we had laying around in the barn, which measured approx. 1/2 thick and 11 1/2 wide. This would leave a slight gap in the back of the shelves but since this saved me from having to go buy more wood I wasn’t converned-and in the end it doesn’t even show. Retrospectively I would have stained the wood first to save on drying time, but se la vie.
After cutting my wood piece down to 18 inches long, I sanded with 220 grit to give a smooth, refreshed surface for my stain to adhere to. Next, I applied Minwax Pre-Stain (think of this as conditioner for your hair, this step preps the hair and gives a smooth surface for the next product to adhere to evenly). Minwax Early American as my stain color of choice, and since I used scrap wood this was a gamble if it would match the other wood accents in my bathroom. Because stain looks different on every single different type of wood, I typically would test my stain colors but I didn’t have any spare pieces to test. Thankfully this ended up matching close enough for me.
After the stain dried, it was time to assemble and decorate the shelves! I attached the wood to the L brackets with what I calle “baby screws” or #8 wood screws, and there yout have it! Easy, beautiful, functional storage that transformed our bathroom! Do you love them as much as I do? Because after I finished decorating these I could not stop staring! I will link all the bathroom decor on my shop page here!
Hello! Last time we talked, we had loaded up the murphy bed frame and hauled it home until installation day… WELL INTALL DAY HAS ARRIVED Y’ALL (oh yes, I am a Texan through and through). If you’re just now joining us, check outMurphy Bed Pt. I , but if you’re all caught up, let’s just jump right in, shall we? I apologize for some lack of photos, I will try to explain the best I can without them!
Materials Used (shelves):
-3 sheets 3/4″ plywood
Yaaaaay shadows! Here is the painted plywood that be the base for the mattress .
-1 sheet 1/4″ plywood OR 1 sheet 1/8 hard board for backing
-nail gun
-kreg jig
-kreg jig screws
Day 2
. . .
Today we had to start bright and early, because yours truly put off painting all the wood…mainly due to cold weather conditions, but laziness was also responsble. The color of choice: Chantilly Lace by Benjamin Moore, paint matched at Sherwin Williams (because we personally like the quality of paint more). After rough sanding all our wood, a step I personally should have spent more time on to avoid roughness, we used our handy dandy Graco paint sprayer to prime all our wood pieces. ***IMPORTANT: always prime your wood***. I have a fun finishing touch in mind for the front of the murphy bed, but if you plan to leave this part as is, make sure to SAND SAND SAND to get a smooth finish.
Shelving unit prior to trim piece additions.
Once the primer was done, two coats of my beautiful Chantilly Lace white were sprayed on. I could write a whole post over my love for Chantilly Lace and how I think it is the perfect shade of interior white, but this post is about the murphy bed and not the fifty shades of white. Continuing on…
Using a nail gun to attacht shelving trim.
Now that all the pieces were sprayed and dry, it was time to begin assembling the shelving units. We have 8 ft ceilings, so these 2 units are each 94″ tall and 22″ wide to leave room for manipulation once inside the room. We are adding crown molding pieces later, so the gap between the shelf and ceiling will eventually be covered up. We started by using our trusty friend, the Kreg jig, and made pocket holes in each of the shelves, then attached the shelves one by one to each side, leveling as we went until all the shelves were in place. We also added a front trim piece to the bottom of the shelf to give an even look. The back panel was then attatched using a nail gun.
While the guys worked on building the next shelf unit, as well as the mattress frame (still using the plans purchased from DIY Tyler, I used the nail gun to attatch the front trim pieces. This gives the shelves a more finished look, and hide the rough, ugly plywood edge. Another option would be to edge band the sides, but adding a trim piece made these look a little more “professional”. Once the trim is attached, fill in the holes using a wood filler, sand down to even the surface, and paint.
Once the shelves were assembled, sanded, all trim was attached and painted, it was time to move them inside! I don’t have any photo evidence of these being moved in, but let me warn you: this is a two man job! Your shelving units and frame will be heavy, and a little difficult to manuver alone. Prior to fitting the shelving units and frame into their final resting place, use a stud finder and mark wall studs to secure your bed to, we don’t want this to fall on anyone! Once we found our studs and the shelves are in place, we used a jig saw to cut out holes for our electricity outlets, and reattached the outlet cover on the inner side of the shelf to give a seamless and built-in look. The shelving units were then attached to the frame (from the inside of the frame to avoid seeing screws on the shelving units) and the whole unit was secured to the wall via screws using pre-marked stud locations.
Lastly, the mattress frame needed to be attatched to the wall frame. This step provided some trouble for us, and I will reccomend how to avoid the complication we faced in a little bit, so hang in there! The swivel bracket we used requires various bolts and screws to attach, and we ran into complications trying to attach one side, then not being able to get access to attatch the other side. ***face palm*** We actually ended up having to UNATTATCH our shelves and wall frame (start over) to get better angles to our swivel bracket and to avoid making holes visable through our shelves. Again, I apologize for the lack of photo evidence throughout this last part of the process. We honestly had to do a lot of problem solving, adjusting, and a little bit of rigging. My best advice: watch the DIY Tyler youtube video on tricks to get your bolts in little bitty places where fingers will not go no matter how ahrd you try! (He starts to talk about the swivel bracket around 9:00).
Murphy bed down without mattress
Murphy bed down with mattress
After lots of sweat (maybe a little blood and tears in there too) we got the whole bed put together and secured to the wall! Let me tell you this thing is worth it! Definitely watch all of the youtube before starting, we did not and faced some complications in the process, as you read above. The last step requires putting the mattress frame in its upright (stowed) position, and making holes through the shelfing unit through the mattress frame to insert the pins which will keep the bed safely upright. We used a 1/2″ drill bit, and then used a 2 1/2″ hitch pin to secure the bed in its upright postion.
There you have it! Was I clear as mud? Honestly, this is so worth it and I’m not even finished yet! Next up for our leading lady? Decoupage and a fun wood design that will knock your socks off!
